“I used to not like oil cleansers because I thought some of them made people potentially more acne-prone,” says Castilla. “I don’t think that’s the case anymore. I think that was just kind of a mistake on my part. These oil cleansers cleanse the skin, but they don’t strip the skin of its natural oils.”

“The Avène Cicalfate+ Restorative Protective Cream is one that I recommend universally,” Castilla says. “It’s free of a lot of irritating ingredients, and it minimizes the ingredients that it uses, so it’s less likely to cause a contact allergy. It’s a thicker cream, so it’s good for sensitive skin, people with eczema.

When your skin is extra parched — maybe from getting used to retinoids — it can be used as a sleep mask, too. “It’s a thick white cream, so you kind of use it like a mask,” says Castilla. “For myself, when I overdo my retinoids, and I’m starting to feel it, I use it kind of like a mask. And typically by the next day, that feeling that I get from too much retinoid, which I’m prone to sometimes, will go away.”

“I really recommend and love that moisturizer for sure,” she says. 

The catch: Its thick texture makes it better suited for your nighttime routine. “The Cicalfate is probably not a moisturizer that you want to use in the morning because it’s very thick, and if you use it, it can look white,” she says. “It’s a better moisturizer for night. I don’t think it works super great under makeup.”

The best sunscreen is one you use consistently, says Castilla. If you’re looking for a place to start, she suggests the derm-loved formula from EltaMD. 

“It’s a zinc oxide, or physical blocker, so it works well for people with sensitive skin or who have reactions to chemical sunscreens, which can happen often,” she says. “It also has ceramides in it, which help support the skin barrier, and cica, which is an extract that helps with inflammation and redness.”

And, if you prefer your SPF with a little redness correction, there’s a tinted version of this SPF with a bit of green in it, too. “I use the green one post-procedure because people are really red, and it is really good at blocking that redness,” she says. 

P.S. EltaMD has been a winner before: One derm picked this as their favorite reef-safe sunscreen, and another recommended the kids version for little ones, too

These ages are when you’re likely to notice any hyperpigmentation that’s popping up, and tinted SPF can be really helpful for that, says Castilla. “Tinted sunscreens can make a big difference for those prone to hyperpigmentation or who already have hyperpigmentation.” 

If you’re not totally sure what hyperpigmentation might look like for you, keep an eye on your skin next time there’s a scratch or abrasion: “Many women start to notice that a pimple, bug bite, or even a small scratch starts to leave behind a dark mark that can linger for months,” she says. 

Colorescience’s formula helps visibly cover the dark marks as an everyday base layer. “One of my personal favorites is Colorescience Sunforgettable SPF 50,” she says. “It comes in several shades and gives enough coverage to even some dark marks so many people find they don't need much makeup on top of it. I also like that it's a mineral sunscreen, making it a good option for sensitive skin, and it has some water resistance as well.”

Even if you haven’t used SPF regularly in years past, it’s never too late to start. “You want to try to prevent more damage if you can, especially if you’re someone who has had skin cancers,” Castilla says. “The 60s and 70s are a lot of times when you start to see those popping up.”

She recommends Isdin’s formula: “It's good sunscreen. It has photolyase enzymes in it,” she says. “Actually, in Europe they use it to treat some types of pre-skin cancers. It’s not the same formulation that we have in the U.S., but it still has those photolyase enzymes.

“When you have someone who has had a lot of sun damage and is prone to skin cancers or pre-skin cancers, it may be one that they would switch to because it could have some additional benefits.”

“Typically when you’re younger, you have a healthier skin barrier,” Castilla says. “You have more oil production, so you can typically use something that’s a little bit stronger than later in life, when your skin barrier changes.”

Because retinol can be potent, Castilla recommends starting slowly to see how your skin responds. “The Avène Retrinal has two strengths: There’s the 0.05 and the 0.1. It has retinal, which is the strongest kind of over-the-counter retinoid available, so it’s really effective,” she says. “Typically, you want to start with something that is weaker, so you could start with the 0.05” concentration. When you introduce it, you want to introduce it slowly, like a couple of times a week, and then you build up to every single day as your skin tolerates.”

“In the 40s to 50s, you are having more skin-barrier issues due to decreased estrogen, decreased production, and potentially more irritation in general,” says Castilla. She likes Medik8’s retinal since it has six strengths, so “you can start at the lowest strength and work your way up.”

It also means you can start with lower concentrations when you're younger, and if you’re happy with the product, then you don’t have to find another product when you want to increase the strength.  

“If someone has been tolerating them for a while, it’s possible that they can just continue, but if your skin is becoming more sensitive or dry, you can decrease the strength,” says Castilla.

Yep, this serum is pricey, but it does the job any time of day. “You can use it in the morning; you can use it at night,” says Castilla. “It’s very lightweight and goes on really easily.” 

It’s good for those who want to keep their routines simple: “You wash your face, use this, and then a retinoid and a moisturizer.”

It packs a punch when it comes to benefits, too: “In an ideal world, it helps to repair some of that DNA damage that happens over time with UV exposure and aging,” says Castlla. “It also has some antioxidant protection and calming and moisturizing factors.”

Another option if you’re looking to make up for that loss of collagen is to invest in a quality peptide serum. Castilla’s go-to comes from Alastin, which has formulas geared to be worn alone or under makeup. 

The Restorative Skin Complex is more of a clear serum, says Castilla, whereas the Skin Nectar is for under makeup. Other than that, she says, they’re pretty interchangeable.